Does anyone know if Digirig can be used to update the G90 base unit and display unit firmware? I know the standard cable is FTDI and Digirig doesn’t use that, but does any of the update software like Farnsworth or TeraTerm depend on the cable being FTDI? Normally I’d just try it but since it’s a firmware update I’d hate to be wrong and then brick it. Presumably I could just change the serial cable from the comm port on the back to the front.
Yes, it should work for the updates as well.
1 Like
As long the COM port is recognized it should be fine? I’m struggling to get audio to work and CAT control only works for a couple frequency changes before it stops, I realized I’m on 0.7 firmware on the G90 and want to update before continuing troubleshooting.
Yes, but it’s unlikely that the firmware upgrade will resolve the issue you are experiencing. The CAT and audio are known to work regardless of the firmware version. Something else is at play here.
UPDATE for the benefit of those looking later:
I was successfully able to update the firmware over the Digirig using just the serial connection. I followed the tutorial from KM9G (Temporarily Offline) for Linux G90 firmware and it absolutely could not have been simpler. As long as you know the COM port that the serial is connected to, everything in the process is the same no matter the cable.
As for my issues, I believe you are correct, and in fact I realized my firmware was closer to up to date than I realized.
I will continuing trying on my own for a bit, haven’t quite hit the frustration point, part of the fun of the hobby is figuring out how to get these things working.
1 Like
The fact that COM port worked for programming tells us that there is no issue with serial communication on Digirig’s side. If CAT fails then the problem is likely related to some settings or RFI.
I do think it is RFI related after more research. I have the Digirig mobile connected using the Digirig brand short shielded USB-C to USB-A with ferrites plugged into the Digirig brand USB isolator. I’m reading that I should wrap the USB (need a longer cable I guess) around a type 43 toroid as a choke. Does that seem right? Any particular recommendations along those lines? I guess it still needs to be USB-C to USB-A to plug into the isolator.